Gentleman’s Graphic Guide to Coats

As they say in  Game of Thrones: winter is coming, and with it comes the need to shelter our chiseled bodies from the storm. We all own overcoats, but how much do you know about what’s in your closet? With most of the menswear brands releasing their A/W collections, we’re got some coat style advice so you don’t get left out in the cold. Here’s a breakdown of a few overcoat keepers.

The duffle coat was originally made from duffel – a coarse, thick and woolen material that originated in Belgium. This style of coat was made popular by the British Royal navy during World War I, and back then it was referred to as a ‘convoy coat’. This kind of coat buttons up in a unique way – it has plastic,wooden or horn toggle-fastenings with rope or leather loops to attach them to. Originally duffle coats were knee-length but have become shorter over time. Suitable for casual wear only, duffle coats come with a bucket hood that has a press stud for adjustment, and is large enough to wear over hats or caps.

The paletot is a double-breasted overcoat with peaked lapels . During the 19th century it resembled a frock coat – think Nucky in Boardwalk Empire. It comes in a 6×2 button arrangement, but the top buttons have a wider button stance and are often left unbuttoned. Unlike a trench coat, the paletot doesn’t feature a belt or waist seam and the pockets are aligned with the middle buttons. It’s advisable to buy this style of coat in a dark, plain fabric as the style is well-suited for wearing over suits or tuxedo’s. What’s great about this style of coat is that it usually comes with a detachable fur collar that makes it 1950s sophisticated, and looks rather dapper with a velvet collar too.

Pea coats(also known as pilot jackets) are usually navy and made from heavy wool. They were originally worn by sailors and American navies, however some styles have evolved to the addition of a hood. This style of coat is characterised by broad lapels, a double-breasted front and large metal or woolen buttons and has vertical pockets. Modern renditions of pea coats extend to the thighs and are referred to as bridge coats. The only accessory you can get away with wearing with this kind of coat is a scarf – provided that it’s tucked into the coat to maintain a clean line.

The king of all overcoats would have to be the Chesterfield coat. It inspired the designs for most overcoats. it’s long and tailored and arose along with the lounge suit. Chesterfield coats came to replace frock coats (thank God!) thanks to it’s heavy waist suppression using a waist seam. They come in both single and double-breasted styles and are popular in heavy-weight tweed fabric in charcoal or navy. They used to be made with velvet collars, either way they’re very versatile, in that they can be worn with suits, semi-formal dress or casual wear. In the 1920s-60s they were a staple for smartly dressed men, making them one of the most famous overcoats.

Parkas became widely popular during the rise of hip hop during the ’80s and ’90s – so much so that rapper Sean John renamed himself ‘Puff Daddy’ because of this style of jacket. This jacket is, of course, puffy-looking with a hood that usually has fur around it. Originally it was a pullover but nowadays it can be buttoned or zipped up. Parkas have a warm inner lining which is usually insulated with goose down or thinsulate. The length extends to the hip. Almost all parkas have large side pockets. They have now become popular amongst the outdoorsy types and winter sports enthusiasts. These are ideal for casual wear only.

Every man owns a trench coat– or so we’d like to believe. This is a ‘raincoat’ made of waterproof heavy-duty cotton or leather, or a combination of both (thank you, Karl Lagerfeld). It comes in a variation of lengths – from mid-calf to just above the knee. Originally this was a military style of clothing; being double-breasted with wide lapels. Commonly, it’s belted at the waist with adjustable straps around the wrists and shoulder straps that button-close. The most classic colour for this coat is khaki, however you can never go wrong by getting it in black or navy. Burberry and Aquascutum have designs that have no waist belt, and Burberry has claimed to have ‘invented’ the trench during the 1850s.

Lesson of the day: when going for a more formal look, leave the duffle and pea coat at home.