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Exposing the kitchen’s gender paradox

LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Letter to the Editor|Published

Gordon Ramsay is one of the most recognisable figures in fine dining and food television.

Image: File picture

Dear Sir,

The whole “women belong in the kitchen” concept is one I’ve never been able to make logical sense of.

The modern professional kitchen runs on a brigade system, which was created by Auguste Escoffier, a man. Men are the ones running the brigade de cuisine (the structured kitchen hierarchy used worldwide). Roles like executive chef, sous chef, saucier, and grillardin are overwhelmingly filled by men. In fine dining, men dominate every tier – from head chefs down to line cooks. Kitchens in hotels, five-star restaurants, and resorts are heavily male-staffed.

If we talk about culinary awards and recognition, men dominate Michelin-starred restaurants (only about 6-7% are run by women). The most well-known celebrity chefs on TV – Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver, Anthony Bourdain, Wolfgang Puck – are men. Men win the majority of prestigious cooking awards, chief among them the James Beard Award. That suggests the industry crowns men as the “masters of cuisine”.

Most food TV shows, cooking competitions, and culinary documentaries feature male chefs as judges and hosts. Anthony Bourdain (Parts Unknown), Gordon Ramsay (Hell’s Kitchen, MasterChef), and Guy Fieri (Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives) – all men. Women are present, but men dominate the face of global food entertainment. If kitchens are on screen, men are usually in charge.

Men own and operate many of the world’s most famous restaurant chains. They hold leadership in fine dining, luxury hospitality, and catering empires. Men often get more investment, recognition, and media coverage when opening restaurants compared to women. The kitchen industry – when it’s business – is heavily male-led.

Men have created global culinary empires – for example Nobu Matsuhisa (Nobu Restaurants), José Andrés (World Central Kitchen and restaurants), and Thomas Keller (The French Laundry). These chefs are international icons, recognised not only for their cooking, but also for redefining cuisine worldwide.

If people keep saying women belong in the kitchen, then they clearly haven’t looked at the actual professional kitchen industry. Men are the chefs, men are the ones plating dishes, men are designing cuisines, winning Michelin stars, hosting food shows, and running restaurant empires. If anyone “belongs in the kitchen”, the evidence says it’s men.

Women belong everywhere – in the kitchen if they choose, and also in the director’s chair, the boardroom and the political arena. Please stop boxing women into a room that men already control.

Yours sincerely,

Yumna Zahid Ali

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