LOOK: Designers unveil their AW25 collections on day one of SA Fashion Week
South African Fashion Week launched the autumn/winter 25 collections at a new venue in Melrose Arch on Thursday, September 26.
In a true SA Fashion Week tradition, day one would be packed to the maximum with fashion enthusiasts, buyers, the media and all the likers of fine things to witness what the designers have prepared for the season.
However, this season was different. Most of the who’s who of the South African fashion industry who have always attended SA Fashion Week were not present, which raised eyebrows. Nonetheless, the shows continued.
Designers unveiled their collections, and the models strutted their stuff in luxury wear.
The Cruz Collective were first on the line-up, and breaking the ice was Thabo Makhetha, who closed Heritage Month in style with a Basotho blanket-inspired collection.
Alca followed with a unisex collection of refreshing ready-to-wear pieces of casual pants with dropped wide pockets in neutral colours and relaxed shirts.
Fikile Sokhulu played around with a bit of denim this season when she presented a collection dedicated to the beauty of a woman’s hair.
“The print that we did this season is called ‘Ubuhle Buqala Ekhanda,’ which means beauty starts from the head. I feel like that’s one of our main beliefs as African women, that’s where our identity has the very core pillar, that’s where everything starts.
“So that’s where I drew my inspiration from, the hair salons, cornrows and different styles.
“With this collection, I wanted to create something authentic to the identity of an African woman but still keep it very feminine and super soft like the identity of the brand,” she said.
For the second show, Artho Eksteen presented a colourful, chic collection of sheer dresses, followed by Michael Ludwig Studio with elegant dresses, with nude, blue and green being the dominant colours.
The designer played around with bold prints of faces facing each other.
Titled “The Ties That Bind Us”, Pret-A-Perfect’s Resort 24/25 collection was dedicated to the sisters who we are born to and those we find. Paired with Beryl Dingemans Jewellery, their pieces were made using upcycled fabrics.
Show three saw Erre present a stunning collection of dusty pink dresses, with rich red also being the dominating colour. Most of the pieces had capes, bouncy sleeves and trains for a dramatic ambience.
Ephymol gave us a breather from womenswear by presenting a ready-to-wear menswear collection in black and white.
The Bam Collective followed with a collection titled “Dynamism”.
“Inspired by our ever-evolving sense of self, ‘Dynamism 24/25’ explored identity formation with clothing as its catalyst.
“The collection takes its visual signifier from the growth and development of the natural world around us as a metaphor for our evolution and relation to the environment and society surrounding us,” said Jacques Bam, the creative director of the brand.
“It references the formation of natural rock and stone, precious minerals and ores, clouds, foliage, waves and wind to create a range of garments within which everyone can explore their complex and ever-changing individuality alongside a world just as complex in its constant growth and progression.
“The range aims to provide a series of diverse garments fit for all the different facets of its wearer’s personality. Garments that evoke confidence and inspire unapologetic self-awareness with the signature Bam exuberance.”
International acclaimed designer Gert-Johan Coetzee was the last to showcase on day one of SA Fashion Week. Inspired by the country’s landscapes, cultures, and resilient people, his collection was a tribute to South Africa’s rich heritage and dynamic spirit.
Coetzee launched the collection at London Fashion Week, where he made his debut and was excited to show the rest of the world what South Africa is made of.
“My collection this season is a love letter to South Africa. It was the first time in my life that I showcased at London Fashion Week, and that was very exciting for me to be able to represent South Africa on such a big platform endorsed by the British Fashion Council- that was incredible,” he said.
“Knowing what the audience would be, I wanted to show them what we can do as Africans. I pulled out all the stops. I met these lovely groups of women in Mpumalanga and for the last eight months, they’ve been working on my showstopper.
“The conversation that they had while they were sewing all these beads together was just incredible, so amazing to imagine what those beads have heard.”
The designer also used SA Fashion Week to launch his handbag collection after learning how to make bags in Italy last year.
The designers who are showcasing tonight are: Floyd Avenue, Belhauzen, House of Ole, Naked Ape, Viviers, Helon Melon, Ngingu, Rubicon, Ellen Madie, E_Mania, Potrends and Sixx6.
SA Fashion Week AW25 runs until September 28.